The Dark Eldar on the other hand are the other force that I always wanted to get into. They are my kind of evil, opportunistic pirates that desire nothing but plunder and slaves, and spend just as much time fighting each other for power and influence as they do other great powers in the galaxy. They are also so radically different to all my other factions, except possibly my chaos, but I only own them because they came in the core set.
Anyway, after putting it off for a very long time I've made my first dent into this project. After a furious burst of assembling and priming I'm now ready to talk about my new batch process for getting through the line infantry for this project.
Stage 1: The Airbrush
To start with I've fully assembled the models and primed using black first all over. Then a 45 degree zenithal highlight of white. Both applied with Games Workshop rattle cans, Chaos Black and Corax White respectively. After that the first big job, not just for the infantry, but for all of the other Venoms and Jetbikes that I've already got assembled, is the airbrush. The goal here being to achieve a decent first base coat with Incubi Darkness. This involves playing off the zenithal priming to achieve some of our first pass of shades and highlights. To do this we will take a light touch with the airbrush, applying successive layers of not too watery paint to prevent it running into the cracks. Obviously there is a lot of preparation leading up to this point, as to avoid having to break out the airbrush over multiple sessions.
Paints Used
- Chaos Black Rattle Can (first primer layer)
- Corax White Rattle Can (second primer layer 45 degree zenithal)
- Incubi Darkness (through the airbrush, thinned with Vallejo airbrush thinner)
Stage 2: First Drybrush
Paints used
- Kabalite Green (Drybrush application, using large drybrush)
Stage 3: First Major Highlights
The most laborious stage of this project is the final overall highlight for the armour and clothes, which we've prepared in the last two stages using Incubi Darkness and Kabalite Green. The colour that we'll use is Kabalite Green. To apply this layer we'll use a fine tipped brush to perform an edge highlight on the armour panel edges, and all of the sharp edges of this clothing. This process will take time, easily the largest amount of work required and the most surface area that will need to be touched across all of the models.
Paints used
- Syrabite Green (Edge highlights with a fine brush)
Stage 4: Weapons & Belt Kit
For all of the infantry weapons we'll opt for a flat black colour. This does not include the power swords for the squad leaders, as I chose to try for a green jade look. First stage involves putting down two layers of Abbadon Black with the largest brush that I can get away with. Once the colour is even and dry we'll apply two edge highlights. The first is Dark Reaper, the second is Dawnstone, though applied only on the sharpest edges. We'll also use this stage to do most of the belt leather for tool belt that each model is equipped with, as well as a few pipes and fires where appropriate.
For the swords I we'll start with an overall base coat of Caliban Green. The goal here is to try and achieve blends and colour transitions on the blade. To start with we'll make sure our first coat is completely dry, then we'll immediately apply another coat. While working quickly, start on the next colour, Warpstone Glow, and blend the two on the model to try and achieve a colour transition in the intermediate areas, then let the colour throughly dry. Next up, we'll repeat the same steps with Warpstone Glow, blending into Moot Green on the highest surfaces. Once that is done, we'll give the sharpest edges a thin highlight with pure Moot Green, then a more selective highlight with Yriel Yellow. Once all of that is dry apply a final glaze of Waywatcher Green to tie the colours together.
Paints used
- Abbadon Black (Overall base coat with largest possible brush)
- Dark Reaper (Overall edge highlight, applied with a fine brush)
- Dawnstone (Selective edge highlight on sharpest edges, applied with a fine brush)
- Caliban Green (Sword basecoat)
- Warpstone Glow (Sword first blend)
- Moot Green (Sword second blend and edge highlight)
- Yriel Yellow (Sword sharpest highlight)
- Waywatcher Green (Glaze on the sword)
Stage 5: Cloth and Banners
Like with the weapons we'll start with an overall base coat of Daemonette Hide. Following that an overall shade of DruchiI Violet, being careful to make sure that shade stays off the armour. After letting it dry, at least half an hour, though I prefer half a day, re-layer the Daemonette Hide over about seventy percent of the raised surfaces. Follow that up with a fairly broad highlight of Warpfiend Gray, then an more selective highlight with Slaneesh Gray.
Paints used
- Daemonette Hide
- Druchii Violet
- Warpfiend Gray
- Slaneesh Gray
Stage 6: Skin & Hair
Due to this stage sharing a common wash colour I opt to do hair and skin together. As usual, lay the basecoats down, starting with Ionrach Flesh for the skin and Mephiston Red for the hair. Once down and dry lay down a shade layer of Druchii Violet. Once the shade is applied go over the model and soak up any excess shade, especially on the face to try and make sure the features are defined, but not overwhelmed by the shade.
Once the shade is dry, re layer the Ionrach Flesh to about seventy percent of the skin, focusing on raised surfaces, then do a more selective highlight of Deepkin Flesh, followed by highlights of Pallid Whych Flesh on the sharpest points, tip of the nose and cheekbones. For the hair, re-layer Mephiston Red, followed by Evil Sunz Scarlet, then Wild Rider Red at the roots and tips. I also paint decorative tassels in this manner.
Paints used
- Ionrach Flesh
- Deepkin Flesh
- Pallid Whych Flesh
- Mephiston Red
- Evil Sunz Scarlet
- Wild Rider Red
- Druchii Violet
Stage 7: Details
Details covers every other part on the model that are quite quick to execute in batch painting, so they warrant an entire stage to themselves.
Eyes
For eyes most people start with painting a black eye shape deep in the sockets. This is great for contrast, but does make the model look like they are wearing eyeshadow. I'm generally not a fan of this look, so I prefer to rely on the shading that I've already established when painting the skin. To start with, I paint the eye shape with Vallejo Offwhite, the lay down a pupil of Vallejo German Gray. Once that is done I touch up the shape of the eye with Ionrarch Flesh and Druchii Violet if I haven't quite got the shape of the eye correct.
Bones
For ornamental bone we won't get fancy with the paint composition. A simple layer of Zandri Dust as a base, followed up with a wash of Agrax Earthshade. Once the shade is dry follow up with a thin layer of Zandri Dust, then some highlights of Ushabti Bone.
Gems and Symbols
There are some raised detail and assorted gems and that need to be differentiated from the armour. To do this we'll start with Mephiston Red, followed up with a shade of Agrax Earthshade, followed up with another layer of Mephiston Red, then a few highlights of Evil Sunz Scarlet, then some spot highlights of Wild Rider Red to taste.
Banner Freehand
For some banner text we won't get fancy. Grab some plasticard and sketch out some vaguely evil, flowing shapes that could be text. Once we're confident that we can replicate the result on the model go ahead and lay it down, don't worry about highlighting the text, though you can where there are significant cloth folds if you feel up to it.Paints used
- Ionrach Flesh
- Deepkin Flesh
- Pallid Whych Flesh
- Mephiston Red
- Evil Sunz Scarlet
- Wild Rider Red
- Druchii Violet
Stage 8: Metallics
For the metallics we'll start with an overall base coat of Vallejo Air Gunmetal. This paint is runny so we'll go in thin and lay the base coat down over two to three layers. Since this particular metal is very dark on black we won't worry about a liquid shade. So for the standard metal we'll use Stormhost Silver.
Paints used
- Vallejo Air Gunmetal
- Stormhost Silver
Stage 9: Basing
For basing we'll use my standard method. That is we've previously glued down some pieces of cork for larger rocks followed by some sand. This should already have been primed so we don't have to worry about any preparation work. To start with we'll grab some Vallejo German Camo Black Brown. This should be relatively thin, so as to allow it to sink into the sand and cork. Once that is completely dry do some heavy over brushing of Vallejo Flat Earth, this should not be at a dry brush consistency, but just enough to leave a decent stream on the base, but keep the original Camo Black Brown visible in the deepest cracks. Again, let that dry, then do a final dry brush of Vallejo Dark Sand.
Once the dirt is thoroughly dry we can start on the rocks, to start with use German Gray to establish a base coat on the rocks. Once that coat is dry put down an over brush layer of Gray Green over the rocks. Finally, some highlights of Sky Gray dry brushed on as a final highlight. Anyway, that is pretty much it. For all of you that want to replicate this result, I hope this helps.
